![]() ![]() More myths from the internet and people who don't know their rear end from a hole in the ground. If you find yourself needing to make an adj and or the adj makes little to no difference something is definitely wrong. So yes once the gas LEAVES that orifice the flow should be corrected for the type and volume of fuel so no adj should be done. Once it leaves the orifice it should be fully corrected for in regard to pressure and BTU content and no shutter (carburetor) adjustment should be necessary to achieve a clean and proper burn. Due to the pressure difference between NG/LP as it ENTERS the valve. You will need an entire manifold set up for ALL the burners to have this work correctly. So first off a simple orifice change will NOT work correctly. There is no hard/fast rule with Weber because they buy them from whoever is the cheapest Chinese supplier they can find. OK first given your description to Mark you have fixed orifice valves not continuous. ![]() I think you're messing your grill up by not knowing what you're doing and following the lead of someone else who also seems to not know or care You're trying to achieve Stoichiometric air fuel ratio. Forget striving for yellow tips as that is actually causing the burn to be too rich in gas. The PROPER setting is the flames should hold "steady" from the burner surface without blowing away in parts or becoming sooty or yellow. IN adjusting the shutters forget "yellow tips" and instead look for flames that hold from the surface of the burner without gurgling or breaking up. If this is not the case "Jason" is giving you BS and leading you down the wrong path. My guess is with all main burners on low (not sear burner but just the 6) your grill should be able to hold about 350 to 450 *depending on wind and ambient temps" and with all (six only) on high should see 550 to 600. The shutters as they come from the factory should be fine whether on NG or LP as long as the orifices are CORRECT. Good luck sounds like you're gonna need itīe careful with that adjustment. You can buy high pressure regulators and low pressure types. You may also have the wrong type of regulator. Here is a chart that will give you reference for the conversion. All depends on which Chinese co Weber sourced them from. Odds of your grill having fixed type valves is pretty slim BUT still possible. So new set of orifices and properly sized and all well. I remember the first time I converted a grill IIRC it was a 48k btu grill and stupid me I made the orifices for 48k PER BURNER (I think I was drinking at the time) it was a blow torch LOL. You could have also wrong sized orifices too. If it has "stepped" or fixed orifice valves you cannot change/convert from NG to LP without complete manifold and valve assemblies. Most of the later grills come with a continuously variable valve BUT unless you look at them you don't know for sure. Going from NG to LP is not always the easiest. ![]()
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